Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2018 5:58 am Posts: 3 Location: Flagstaff, Arizona
It really depends on the type of lap.
For electroplated laps a scrub brush, water and some dawn soap should work well for a deep cleaning. I run a toothbrush and water on a spinning lap after each use before putting them away on their rack to dry.
For sintered laps "cutting" some lava soap on a spinning lap is the way I clean them after each use. Dressing them also causes a new layer to reveal itself which will be nice and clean.
For charged laps alcohol will dissolve any dried cutting oil, allowing it to be wiped away. Applying new oil will dissolve it a bit too. It depends on the lap and how it was stored what makes the most sense. Cleaning it can remove some embedded diamond, so I don't clean them too aggressively in use. It it has been cross contaminated, it may be impossible to clean off the coarse grits leaving you with the choices of dedicating it to a coarser grit, or having it resurfaced by a machinist. Cleaning it with a Brillo pad, soap and water is a last resort that may remove embedded diamond, worth a try before having it resurfaced, but not good for standard cleaning. Typically I give charged laps a gentile swipe with a paper towel and the cutting fluid (water or oil) to wipe off any swarf and excess lubricant before I put them away in their clean cases.
Some impregnated laps, like the creamway, etc can be deep cleaned using acetone on a rag wiped on a spinning lap. It removes the top layer of the lap revealing fresh underneath. Good for an occasionally refreshing on some types of laps, but not after each use.
There's probably more that could be said about specific laps, but that's a basic starting point.
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2016 7:58 pm Posts: 1424 Location: San Marcos, CA
You might want to address using acetone on a Gearloose composite lap with Gearloose first. I have found over the years that chemical reactions do not always show themselves at first. I use acetone for breaking down CA glue only.
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:41 pm Posts: 5534 Location: Massachusetts, USA
I suggest a 15-20 second wipe with acetone to deglaze the laps we make when the polishing action slows. Acetone does not stick around. The polymer base can cleave on the surface and make a varnish-like film. Acetone quickly removes it when briefly applied.
Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 8:32 am Posts: 1730 Location: Suwanee, GA US
For Tin type laps, clean on the machine with WD-40 on a paper towel to get the initial off. Then....
Definition first - Gum eraser - A tan colored art eraser that has NO additives such as pumice. Gray and Pink erasers usually have pumice or some other abrasive added into the mixture. They are a NO-NO.
After you have run a WD-40 cleaning on the running lap and most of any remaining swarf on, use your gum eraser on the lap. You should physically see the color change as the lubricant and other stuff comes off. You should also see eraser boogers in your bowl downstream. Go over it to the center and back to the edge a few times.
Clean with WD-40 on Snake Oil. Recharge.
This is your rescue technique if you lap becomes contaminated too. Some stones try to donate to the material and this gets it gone.
Technique courtesy of Gearloose at least a decade ago!
Could i use that clay bar they suggest for use on automobiles to remove scuffs and microscopic dirt? U have to spray with oil then work the clay on that area till the clay becomes dirty etc.?
I am back. And here is a tide bit I picked up regarding cleaning laps which might have become contaminated --they suggested running the lap with plenty of water and "cutting" sum obsidian? Any thoughts on this from anyone? I was thinking to try it on a sintered lap etc.?
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