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 Post subject: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2022 1:03 pm 
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Hi there. I recently acquired a beautiful ring and am hoping to get a better idea of its authenticity.

It fulfills many of the criteria for an authentic art deco piece: 18k white gold, a sapphire surrounded by many smaller diamonds in a very intricate setting. There is an American 18k purity mark and a hallmark that I cannot identify.

Perhaps one of you have thoughts on the mark and/or authenticity?

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2022 2:59 pm 
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The mark next to 18k is a maker's mark, not a hallmark.
I am not familiar with this stamp.
The diamonds? What is the cut? They appear to be modern brilliants.

My feeling is that the piece is contemporary done with an Art Deco inspiration.

18k would have been used during WW1 but the metal of choice went back to platinum when the war ended. The 18k done at this time was usually die-struck, not cast. This is clearly a cast ring.


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2022 5:26 pm 
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Interesting - what about this makes you say it's definitely a cast piece?

The seller is refusing to give a refund for the item, claiming there are no returns. But he also claimed this was an authentic vintage ring circa 1925.

I can bring a case against the seller, but I don't necessarily know how to prove that it's not authentic Art Deco.


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 1:28 pm 
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The ring is attractive. Did you pay a fair price, presuming it is contemporary? If so, consider it a lesson in future buys. If not, considerate it a lesson in future buys.

Familiarize yourself with the tools, fashion and politics of the eras you are interested in. Learn to look at a piece of jewelry forensically.

Understanding Jewellery is an excellent book. I highly recommend it.

If you don't want to spring for a copy, see if you can get it from a local library.

Review this page from GIA
Jewelry Detectives: Students Search for Clues to Quality Workmanship, Longevity

Research when the next forensic jewelry class will be offered by GIA. It's online so no excuses.
Good luck!


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 1:31 pm 
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I did pay a fair price. And it is a pretty ring. I was just looking for something specific.

And I agree - lots of research beforehand and a lesson learned! :)


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 3:15 pm 
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Looks like a lot of the cast jewelry we mass manufactured back in the 2000's. I can see that in the shank.

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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 3:49 pm 
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Yep, me too porosity on the inside of the shank.
This kind of "vintage" style is still being produced by the ton.


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 6:29 pm 
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Look inside the shank (the under gallery) just left of the makers mark. That cut out is to lighten the piece, and if you look close you can see that it hasn't been finished just what the tumbling process accomplished after the cast most likely. Just like Barbra said the porosity in that area gives some clues.

The sapphire is a bit green or is that my screen?

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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:19 pm 
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It is a bit green, yes.

And thank you all for the replies. They have been really helpful and informative. Honestly, I feel a little silly now. All of my posting and other research should have been done before the purchase - and I feel silly because I know this! I just got ahead of myself.

Good lesson for next time.


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2022 3:36 pm 
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Please feel free to run any potential purchase by us because, as you can see, we always have an opinion. :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Authentic Art Deco?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2022 5:30 pm 
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So I'll take you up on that! I'm obviously in the market for an art deco diamond/sapphire ring.

I've found this new one - which I love. I've had a chance to try it on, and it's from a jeweler that is reputable in my area. They assure me it's authentic, and I'm including their own description below, along with pictures.

I suspect I'm on the right path with this one, but I'd love to get your thoughts, just because...

"1920's Art deco Antique Ring 14kt White Solid Gold with Genuine Vibrant Blue Sapphires and Old cut Diamonds Filigree ring - .45 CTW / The Unique ring consists of 5 Old Single cut Diamonds .15 ctw - white and eye clean. Further enhancing the beauty of this ring are 6 Vibrant Blue Genuine Sapphires .30ctw / We have our sapphire and diamond rings examined under a gemologist microscope, please note the proper gemological equipment is essential to identifying gemstones. Appraisal given upon request."


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